"Bergschrund" is a collaboration with the minimalist German composer Nils Frahm, and it's a strange delight.
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So far, we've heard the meditative title track, the Nils Frahm-featuring "Bergschrund," and "Nobody Speak," a brilliant Run The Jewels collaboration.
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Nils Frahm, "Bergschrund" Instrumental hip-hop legend DJ Shadow is releasing The Mountain Will Fall, his first LP in half a decade, on June 24th.
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Cross section of a cirque glacier showing the bergschrund A bergschrund—the long crack at the foot of the mountain slope—in the Ötztal Alps Open bergschrunds at Mont Dolent A bergschrund (from the German for mountain cleft) or rimaye (from French; ) is a crevasse that forms where moving glacier ice separates from the stagnant ice or firn above.Whittow, John (1984). Dictionary of Physical Geography. London: Penguin, 1984, p. 61. .
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It is often a serious obstacle for mountaineers, who sometimes abbreviate "bergschrund" to "schrund". In a corrie or cirque, the bergschrund is positioned at the rear, parallel to the back wall of the corrie. It is caused by the rotational movement of the glacier. In a longitudinal glacier, the bergschrund is at the top end of the glacier at a right angle to the flow of the glacier.
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Oxford English Dictionary supplement (1987) The French word rimaye covers both notions of randkluft and bergschrund. On the South Col route to reach the summit of Mount Everest, a deep bergschrund lies at the bottom of the Lhotse face, separating Camp II from Camp III.
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A bergschrund forms when the movement of the glacier separates the moving ice from the stationary ice forming a crevasse. The method of erosion of the headwall lying between the surface of the glacier and the cirque's floor has been attributed to freeze- thaw mechanisms. The temperature within the bergschrund changes very little, however, studies have shown that ice segregation (frost shattering) may happen with only small changes in temperature. Water that flows into the bergschrund can be cooled to freezing temperatures by the surrounding ice allowing freeze- thaw mechanisms to occur.
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On the evening of 19 October he reached the col between P 6254 m and Kirti Stambh and Bivouac at the col. On 20 October after negotiating the bergschrund difficulties on the summit snowfield, he reached the summit of Kirti Stambh at 9.20 a.m.
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The head can come away from the cirque in a downslope movement which can create a large crevasse called a bergschrund. This crevasse can be a major obstacle for mountaineers. The existence of a bergschrund is evidence that ice mass has pulled away from the cirque. A shrinking glacier thins faster near the terminus than near the head, which explains why glaciers retreat up-valley and the glacier head stays in place The speed of erosion or accumulation is partly dependent on a shape factor which is the ratio of the change in thickness at the glacier head to the change in the thickness at the terminus.
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It involves crossing a number of crevasses in the glacier and may be impassible due to wall-to-wall bergschrund at the upper end. This is not an attractive route and should only be attempted by strong alpinists when there is deep snow cover on the glacier.
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They made first ascents of most of the volcanoes in Ecuador. Cayambe remains a favorite of mountaineers today. The main route runs through a much-fissured terrain of moderate inclination, and only in its final part does the slope increase to 45°. There is a formidable bergschrund to cross at about .
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It is caused by the downwards flow of the glacier. Bergschrunds extend to the bedrock and can have a depth of well over . In winter, a bergschrund is often filled by snow from avalanches from the mountain above it. In later summer, due to melting, it lies open and can present a very difficult obstacle to alpinists.
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The bergschrund is distinct from the randkluft (also called rimaye), which is the crevasse of which one face is the rock, back wall of the corrie. The randkluft arises in part from the melting of the ice due to the presence of the warmer rock face.Benn, D.I. & Evans, D.J.A. Glaciers and Glaciation (1998) However, the randkluft is sometimes called a bergschrund.Burchfield, R.W. ed.
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They walk up the glacier wearing new crampons, probing for crevasses with their ice-axes. They cross the bergschrund and climb a little on rock. Carless suggests abseiling 200 feet (60 m) to the next glacier, a place where they would have been trapped. Wisely, they return to their base camp and try again the next morning, again finding their way blocked.
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Sunderland appeared in the New Zealand soap opera Shortland Street as White Dragon, in a storyline concluding the 3 year Kieran Mitchell story arc. In 2016, Sunderland played the role of a drunken man resisting alien abduction in the music video for Bergschrund by DJ Shadow & Nils Frahm. Sunderland played the chemist, Joseph Pritchard in the 2020 miniseries The Luminaires.
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It lies entirely within Mount Hood Wilderness. The most well known feature of Coalman is the Hogsback: a snow ridge running southwest to northeast from Crater Rock toward the summit ridge. The Bergschrund is another widely known feature where the glacier pulls away from the headwall leaving a large crevasse. In 2007, it had become large enough to cause most climbers to use another route.
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From Camp VIII the final assault on the mountain was being contemplated with little understanding that the supply lines were vestigial. They started climbing on July 17 with Wiessner confident of success. By this time Wiessner had spent 24 days above and Wolfe 26 days. They and Pasang Lama climbed strongly but on reaching the bergschrund it was clear that Wolfe could get no further so he returned to VIII.
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The other climber required technical climbing equipment and was assisted down the Bergschrund. He walked down and joined his partner about dawn at a Timberline snowcat at the top of the ski area. National media covered a minor 2007 climbing incident probably due to the intense December 2006 tragedy coverage. On January 14, 2008, in good weather, two young and experienced climbers intended to ascend the Leuthold Couloir route.
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On May 24, 2002, a 30-year-old Argentine national attempted to snowboard off Mount Hood's summit along Cooper Spur ridge. He lost control after a few turns and tumbled over to his death. A search-and-rescue team deploys in December 2006 from Timberline Lodge. On May 30, 2002, three climbers were killed and four others injured when they fell into a crevasse (The Bergschrund) in the hogsback.
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The path continues in the direction of the mountain NNW ridge through the crevassed glacier. Next comes the plateau which turns towards the SSE and slopes gently, on a long traverse in the direction of a steep icy chute to the SW ridge. The bergschrund can create serious problems, in most cases, it towers to the right of a providential bridge. The icy slope climb spans up about fifty meters, at about 50/55 °.
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It is widely held that a common cause for headwall steepening and extension headward is the crevasses known as bergschrund that occur between the moving ice and the headwall. Plucking and shattering can be seen here by those exploring the crevasses. A cirque is exposed when the glacier that created it recedes. alt= When three or more of these cirques converge on a central point, they create a pyramid-shaped peak with steep walls.
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The climbing route of the 1975 expedition. The upper part of the route without fixed ropes is dotted red and the route proposed by Haston and Scott is dashed red. From the bergschrund at the foot of the Southwest Face, the mountain slopes up at a steady angle of about 45°. Fixed ropes were to be set up from here for about a vertical height, to not far below the South Summit. Camp 3 was at as before.
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The party turned back on the first day at a bergschrund, returning on the following day with a ladder in length, carried by Peter Rubi, a porter from Grindelwald. The way lay at first by the rocky buttress of the Mönch, separating the Eiger and Guggi glaciers. From the buttress the route descended a short distance in order to reach the Guggi Glacier, which could be ascended to a plateau. This halting place was reached in about three hours.
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However, the peak is a nunatak and the final ascent is relatively short; only the tip of the mountain emerges from the surrounding icefield. The route to Peak 5390 navigates ridges, a cul-de-sac glacier, a glacial headwall, a seasonal bergschrund, and a large icefield. Only experienced climbers should undertake a trip, and local knowledge is recommended. On a clear day, the mainland, the Coast Mountains, and distinguished peaks such as Devils Thumb and other spires in the Stikine Icecap are visible from the summit.
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The route starts from a base camp at the east of Lake Parón, follows the crest of the moraine and goes right rocks to the glacier, Once the bergschrund is passed, the routes involve climbing snow and mixed ground steep 60° and a final section at 80°. The final pitch gives access to a 55-65° snow and ice slope leading to the summit cornices. Those can be avoided on the right. The climb requires 10–12 hours from the base of the face.
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La Renclusa mountain hut The normal route of ascent is common to both Maladeta and Aneta up to the height of the upper Portillón. There one continues in a straight line to the bottom of the crest of the Maladeta, which is accessible via a steep passage to a very distinctive and visible rock. The route into the corridor can be very hazardous because a deep bergschrund that usually opens in the glacier following the winter. Ascents of the mountain are only recommended for experienced climbers.
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By the end of his life he had recorded climbing over 1,700 mountains. A celebrated climb was the traverse of the Meije together with the Zsigmondy brothers in 1885, which to this date is considered a classic alpine route. He is best known as the first European to ascend Kilimanjaro in 1889, together with the German mountaineer Hans Meyer. After a descent of the Aiguille du Dru with G. Löwenbach and Jakob Oberhollenzer on August 25, 1899, an ice axe broke and the rope team fell into a bergschrund.
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It is formed by the melting of ice against warmer rock and may be very deep. During summer therefore, a randkluft will become wider and thus more difficult for climbers to negotiate. Randklufts are often found in relatively low-lying glaciers such as the Blaueis in the Berchtesgaden Alps or the Höllentalferner in the Wetterstein. A randkluft is similar to, but not identical with, a bergschrund, which is the place on a high-altitude glacier where the moving ice stream breaks away from the static ice frozen to the rock creating a large crevasse.
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As she did so, something went wrong. As Wickwire explains: Wickwire looked back at the fixed rope and saw Hoey's open climbing waist harness still attached via a jumar. He couldn't compute at first what had happened, but later realized that her harness strap had not held, because Hoey hadn't threaded "the end of her belt back through the buckle (the only way to assure it would not come loose)". Retracing the route down, Wickwire found one of her crampons, but her body was lost below in the mountain's bergschrund.
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Supported by Frost and Burke, Whillans and Haston established Camp V but that night spindrift inundated the site and the tent so they decided to find a better camp location. Next day they explored the Ice Wall finding a "gangway" leading to the top of the Ice Wall and the foot of the Rock Band. At this point the overhang of the bergschrund, although threatening, provided excellent shelter so they proposed moving Camp V to this point. On 9 May Frost and Burke established the camp at the new, higher location.
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At the end of the dry season a bergschrund can make problematic the last section of the climb. The route is rated D and was climbed the first time on the 24 June 1969 by K. Schreckenbach, H. Saler and K. Sussmilch. A large number of accidents have happened descending the Southeast Ridge Route, primarily due to the failure of snow anchors while abseiling. The summit ridge of Artesonraju accessed by the North Ridge Route is well known for its fragility; special care must be taken as there is an unusually high risk of avalanches at the start of the climbing season here.
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The climbers carried a Mountain Locator Unit, which rescuers could have used to pinpoint their location had they not descended from the mountain on their own. On September 7, 2007, in the early afternoon two Portland-area climbers were ascending the Hogsback to the Pearly Gates when one slid to the edge of the Bergschrund and sustained injuries sufficient for him to call for rescue assistance. His partner decided it was too dangerous to descend the frozen gravel and loose rock face and remained in place. Rescuers arrived about five hours later, assessed the fallen climber, treated minor injuries and belayed him walking down.
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Above the bergschrund the snow was easier. Because they pitched their tent lower than they had hoped, next day they moved Camp IX up to the top of a rock pillar. Later Wiessner was to write of his thoughts at this point The weather was perfect and the summit was only above them as they launched their summit attempt at the late hour of 09:00 on July 19. They then reached a point of decision: to traverse right to reach a couloir, later known as the "Bottleneck", beside unstable ice from the summit cornice or, alternatively, a technical rock climb to the left free from objective dangers but very difficult for Pasang Lama.
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On 31 July 1876 Middlemore made the first ascent of the north-east face of the Aiguille Verte by what is now known as the Cordier Couloir with the London stockbroker John Oakley Maund, the Chamonix guide Henri Cordier, Grindelwald guides Johann Jaun, Andreas Maurer, and Jakob Anderegg. This book incorrectly gives the year of the Aiguille Verte climb as 1875. The route was not repeated until 1924, and according to Helmut Dumler is "one of the most respected achievements in the history of mountaineering, for the 900m couloir is set at an angle of up to 56°". Engel notes that the party were all nearly obliterated by rockfall while they were crossing the bergschrund.
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He came to a full stop just 76 m (250 ft) from the edge of a bergschrund, a large, deep crevasse where the ice shears away from the stagnant ice on the rock face and begins to move downwards as a glacier. The ski descent was the objective of The Japanese Everest Skiing Expedition 1970. Six members of this expedition died. At the same time, another independent Japanese expedition (called The Japanese Mount Everest Expedition 1970) undertook a combined ascent of (a) the normal route, including Naomi Uemura who made the summit, and (b) the first attempt at the South-West Face, the tall black face on the movie poster with the Y-shaped snowy gully.
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Claire Engel notes that the party were all nearly obliterated by rockfall while they were crossing the bergschrund. The following week, on 4 August 1876, he ascended the Cordier route on the north face of Les Courtes, again with Thomas Middlemore, Henri Cordier and guides Jakob Anderegg, Andreas Maurer and Johann Jaun, followed by the 7 August 1876 first ascent of the east summit of Les Droites (the lowest of the Alpine 4000ers) with Thomas Middlemore, Henri Cordier and guides Johann Jaun and Andreas Maurer. This ascent was not without incident. In an article in the Alpine Journal Maund wrote: In 1881, on 31 July, he attempted the Mittellegigrat (north-east ridge) of the Eiger, with J. Baumann, Johann Jaun, Andreas Maurer and Emile Rey.
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First we went up to the Petit Col Ferret, and had a little grind over shaly banks; then there was a little walk over grass; then a little tramp over a moraine (which, strange to say, gave a pleasant path); then a little zigzagging over the snow-covered glacier of Mont Dolent. Then there was a little bergschrund, then a little wall of snow [. . .] The summit itself was little, very small indeed; it was the loveliest little cone of snow that was ever piled up on a mountain-top; so soft, so pure; it seemed a crime to defile it; it was a miniature Jungfrau; a toy summit, you could cover it with a hand.Edward Whymper, Scrambles amongst the Alps, 6th edition, London: John Murray, 1936, p. 195.
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A crevasse near the Mönchsjoch Hut trail Above the bergschrund was a second and smaller plateau which was situated immediately under the long slopes of broken neve that lay below the saddle. The final and very arduous stage in the ascent was a single patch of dark rocks jutted out from the snow in the ridge connecting the Jungfrau with the Mönch. After more than an hour of climbing, a great wall of ice, whose projecting cornice of snow was fringed by long icicles, had to be avoided bearing left in the direction of the Mönch, along the base of the wall by a slippery pathway of ice formed from the dripping from the icicles above. At a point where the pathway thinned out nearly to a point, and was cut across by a transverse crevasse, the wall became low enough to be scaled by the ladder.
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