It's subtle but transformative to know what sugar feels like in your fingers at different stages of candying.
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My icy treasure chest of leftovers, of bread for toasting, of orange peels for candying; of frozen vegetables and fish; of my sister-in-law's cherry chocolate cake and my mother-in-law's eggnog kugel.
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The two primary techniques at work here—candying citrus, and using gelatin to set a curd pie filling—can be a little tricky to nail down, but when you do, you've got a dessert that is certainly not boring. Quick!
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When scraped off and used as a culinary ingredient it is called zest. A confection called succade can also be produced by candying the inner rind (known as pith or albedo) of the citron or lemon.
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The book describes how to make savoury dishes including "Bisks, Farces, forc'd Meats, Marinades, Olio's, Puptons, Ragoos, Sauces, Soops, Pottages". Pastries include biscuits, cakes, custards, puddings, pies and tarts. Confectionery includes candying and conserving flowers, fruits, and roots, as well as jellies, marmalades and decorative "sugar-works". Drinks include the making of beer, cider, mead, perry and English wines, as well as cordials.
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To make a roller, the ingredients are melted together in a double-boiler kettle. The process is timed to avoid candying the molasses. The mixture is cast into molds around a wooden or metal "stock" or core, which after cooling and seasoning is then hooked onto the handle or printing press. The performance of composition rollers was notoriously subject to their environmental conditions.
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Later editions of the book added the subtitle Whereto are added several experiments of the vertue of Gascon powder, and lapis contra yarvam by a professor of physick. As also most exquisite ways of preserving, conserving, candying &c..; The book was popular, going through twenty-two editions. Some of the recipes reflect the influence of English Paracelsianism. Medical recipes were an interest she shared with her younger sister, Alethea Howard, Countess of Arundel.
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Much of the information was already in his 'Jewell-house.' A more complete work was Delights for Ladies.Delights for Ladies to adorne their Persons, Tables, Closets, and Distillatories; with Bewties, Banquets, Perfumes, and Waters, London (by Peter Short), 1602; other editions, 1609, 1611, 1617, 1632, 1636, 1640, and 1656. The first part of the volume reappeared posthumously as 'A Closet for Ladies and Gentlemen, on the art of Preseruing, Conserving, and Candying.
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A konditorei puts emphasis on the artistic aspect of the trade and, unlike a bakery, does not produce breads. The craft developed when particular bakers specialised in the creation of sweet bread to which candied fruits and other sweet ingredients were added. The origin of the word konditor (the konditorei’s baker) stems from the Latin word candire, which stands for “candying of fruits”. Another derivation is the Latin word conditura (condio) = to concoct (food), preservation (of fruits).
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Food preservation methods using sugar (palm syrup and honey) were known to the ancient cultures of China and Mesopotamia. However, the precursors of modern candying were the Arabs, who served candied citrus and roses at the important moments of their banquets . With the Arab domination of parts of southern Europe, candied fruit made its way to the West. In Italy, they became a key ingredient of some of the most famous sweets of its culinary tradition: among these, the Milanese panettone and Cassata Siciliana.
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